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JAPAN LOCAL PEOPLE STORIESA Tea Master Special Tea
” Everyone has their own preferences, for tea, whether they’re intrigued by unique flavors, prefer a sweeter, fruitier taste, or prioritize the aroma.
Even when the same tea is offered to 100 people, each person perceives it differently.
I crafted a tea for Yui Prima Olivia to be enjoyed by people of all ages and backgrounds, whether Japanese or Foreign.
It’s a special tea for everyone.”
This message is from Mr. Yasuyuki Suda, the Tea Master of the renowned tea shop Hokodo and one of the most illustrious Sommeliers who judges the quality of tea produced in Japan.
A Chat with a National Recognized Tea Master
The Life of a Professional Tea Maker
The Importance of Variety in Tea
Without Imagination there is no Tea
The Unique History of the Shop
The Coffee Difficult Break and the First Advertisement
Location of the Shop
A Chat with a National Recognized Tea Master
Mr. Suda is a Japanese Tea master and a certified expert in Japanese tea, achieving the 10th Dan in the National Tea Evaluation Technique Competition in 2015.
Born in a family of tea sellers, he has been immersed in the world of tea since childhood. When adult, he decided to separate himself from the family business starting to work for Hokodo and he is now the 6th generation tea master from the founder of the shop.
The Life of a Professional Tea Maker
During our brief interview with Mr. Suda, his deep love for tea was evident. When asked about his personal favorite, he explained that his preferences vary depending on the season, the day, and even the time of day!
“When I wake up in the morning and I am sleepy, I drink a strong-flavored tea that wakes me up, at lunch when I am very thirsty after working I drink a tea that I can have in a lot of quantity and fast, and at evening I am tired after a long day at work I drink something light that makes me feel refreshed like roasted green tea. Sometimes I like to change and try teas that are very peculiar and have an unusual taste. I love all of them!”
For his work, he must sample a large amount of tea, visiting various tea fields across Japan. On his busiest days, he tastes up to 1000 cups of tea, and during the tea production season, he follows this routine daily!
Tea masters like Mr. Suda are also careful about what they consume to preserve their tasting skills. They avoid spicy or strongly flavored foods and drinks that could damage their tongues.
“If I go to a sushi restaurant, I have to ask the staff to remove all wasabi and ginger!”he laughed.
The Importance of Variety in Tea
When we asked Mr. Suda about the type of tea he produces, he explained that it’s a tricky question because tea is a product that each person perceives differently.
Even if the same tea is offered to 100 people, it will be perceived differently, and every individual will have their own preferences. Some may be intrigued by unusual flavors, while others may prefer a sweeter and more fruity tea and for some others, the aroma may be just as important as the taste.
In other words, taste preferences vary from person to person, highlighting the importance of producing a wide variety of teas to cater to diverse tastes.
Some teas gain popularity and are passed down through generations, while others may not sell at all and are discontinued.
Additionally, new teas are developed and introduced every year to meet evolving consumer preferences.
Without Imagination there is no Tea
In Hokodo, there are also some ancient tea varieties dating back to the shop’s early generations. These teas maintain their original names, chosen by ancestors, and are still produced today, preserving the same production process and distinctive taste that made them popular in the past.
Mr. Suda emphasized the importance of naming in tea production, highlighting that it requires imagination, which is fundamental to the tea-making process.
“Without imagination, there is no tea”, he said.
Sometimes, it takes Mr. Suda several years to come up with a name before producing the tea, while other times, the name arises naturally after the tea has been produced and tasted.
It’s a process driven by creativity.
The Unique History of the Shop
Hokodo originated as a small business in Kyoto during the 1930s, primarily focused on producing and selling Japanese tea. Initially, it distributed its tea nationwide, but its significant breakthrough came in 1858 when it became the designated tea supplier to the Matsudaira family, esteemed feudal lords relative to the Shogun Family. This recognition led to the adoption of the name “Hokodo,” which remains its identity to this day.
In Edo Period Hokodo flourished as a successful business, supplying its products to the royal family and aristocracy in Kyoto.
However, after the feudal period was over, the clientele disappeared, and it became vital to find other costumers.
This led to a relocation to Kobe, a newly opened port city facilitating trade with foreign nations. Here, the company exported tea to various countries and, in return, imported coffee beans. This transition marked the shop’s evolution beyond tea, as it began also offering coffee for the first time in Japan!
The Coffee Difficult Break and the First Advertisement
The introduction of coffee was not easy and was not well accepted from the beginning. Coffee was considered a luxury item enjoyed by the wealthy, so only a minority of people were familiar with it, and even fewer had tasted it. Consequently, when Hokodo began importing coffee beans and selling beverages in their shop, they initially struggled to attract customers.
To address this challenge, they decided to place a small advertisement in the “Yomiuri Shinbun” newspaper. This advertisement, published in 1878 during the Meiji Period, is a historical document as it represents the oldest advertisement about coffee in Japanese newspapers that is still preserved today!
Nowadays, coffee is still sold at the shop, but tea remains its primary focus.
Location of the Shop
Hokodo is conveniently situated in the heart of Kobe, making it easily accessible for visitors. You can find it along Motomachi shopping street, close to Chinatown.
It’s just a 3-minute walk from Motomachi JR Station and a 15-minute walk from Sannomiya JR Station.
The shop is divided into two main sections: on the left, you’ll find a cozy café where you can enjoy pre-prepared products. On the right is the retail section, offering a wide selection of Japanese teas and coffees. The traditional atmosphere of the shop aims to recreate its original look and feel.
Address: 3-10-6 Motomachi-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe-shi, Hyogo Prefecture, Japan